Crete is a continent dressed as an island. It takes nine hours to drive from west to east and we would argue that every one of them is worth your time. We’ve been coming here for over a decade; here are the beaches we return to, ranked honestly.
10. Preveli Beach, south coast
A palm-ringed river mouth where you can swim from fresh to salt water in a single breath. Rougher than it sounds, with occasional strong currents on the west side. Climb the gorge for a view that stops conversation.
9. Falassarna, west coast
A long open bay with the finest pale-pink sand on the island. Wind picks up most afternoons, which makes mornings here delicious and sunsets dramatic. There are three distinct swimming areas; the second from the south is our favourite.
8. Vai, east coast
The famous palm-forest beach. It gets crowded by eleven in July and August, so arrive at 8:30 or stay for sunset. The forest itself is older than the city of Athens.
7. Chrissi Island, south coast
A protected cedar-forest island reached by small boat from Ierapetra. Pink coral-sand beaches on the north, cedar shade on the south, and no shops of any kind. Bring everything you need, including a towel that packs small.
6. Agiofarango, south coast
Reached by a 30-minute walk down a dry riverbed between tall limestone walls. Small pebble beach, cold deep water, perfect for a long day of swimming out, drying off, reading, swimming out again.
5. Elafonisi, west coast
Yes, it’s famous, and yes, the pink sand is actually pink — made of broken shells. Walk to the far western end to escape the crowds. The lagoon-like shallows are magnificent for small children.
4. Seitan Limania, north coast near Chania
A tight fjord with impossibly clear water, reached via a steep goat path. Twenty-minute hike down, forty back up. Shoes with grip, water, nothing valuable.
3. Balos, west coast
The classic postcard — a shallow turquoise lagoon with a sand spit between two land masses. Approached by boat from Kissamos or a long rough drive and short walk. Go on a weekday if you can.
2. Loutro, south coast
Not strictly a beach but a tiny village with a swimming cove in front, reachable only by foot or boat. You walk the Samaria Gorge, you keep going east along the coast, and after four hours you arrive and never want to leave.
1. Glyka Nera (Sweet Water), south coast
Our favourite. Small, pebbly, with cold freshwater springs rising through the gravel so you can drink from the beach itself. A one-hour coastal walk from Loutro, or a water taxi if the walk doesn’t appeal. No facilities, no music, no umbrellas — just extraordinary water and the sound of the Libyan Sea.
A rule for Crete
Any beach that requires a walk is a beach worth walking to. Bring our Geometria towel (it weighs 320 grams), two litres of water, a hat and nothing else. Come home salty.